Gentle Ferocity/ Ferocious Gentleness (8/22)

 

Today began with this exquisite breakfast arranged so artfully in a box. Then took a car outside of the city to Zhenguo Temple followed by Shuanglin Temple. Both are Unesco sites and both are over 1,000 years old, some of the longest standing wooden structures on the planet. Both were similar, with some 10 or more buildings featuring clay sculptures of Buddhas, Bodhisattvas, Heavenly Kings, Arhat Disciples. Deep in the recesses protected behind bars where paintings or sculptures depicting different stories of Buddha’s life. 

 

My favorite temples were those paying homage to Avalokitesvara, the female Boddhisatva of Compassion with her all-knowing and all-loving smile and graceful composure. Also known as Guanyin or Kwannon in Japan, she is the embodiment of kindness and gentleness. But at the entrance to the gate are the fierce guardians protecting all against evil. It appears to arrive at gentleness, you must be fierce in defense against cruelty. Think of a mother bear protecting her cubs here. Important to keep in mind for all those working to restore kindness to American culture. Don’t forget ferocity!

Back to the walled city for a delicious eggplant and tofu lunch and a drink mixing Coca-Cola with the prized local vinegar. I liked it! An afternoon ahead to begin to plan my 5-day course that starts on Monday and then off to an intriguing show tonight. I could get spoiled by this new form of teaching-traveling— some four or five days of rest and tourism before jumping into the familiar world transposed to a new place. I like it!

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I feel obliged to describe this show, but words elude me. Let’s just say it was one of the most unusual shows I’ve been to. Titled Again Pingyao, it was a kind of performance art pieces with 1,000 people walking through an enormous building following the actors/ dancers weaving a story I never understood (all speaking was in Mandarin). Something about being exiled from Pingyao and trying to get back. It was of spectacle proportions, with booming recorded music and elaborate lights and difficult to describe sets (a few photos to give a sense of it), the audience sometimes part of the story as if walking through a marketplace and the whole thing finally ending in a theater with seats. 

Would I recommend it? Well, it certainly was interesting! But the spectacle is not my cup of tea. Much happier in a small setting listening to a solo Bach cello suite or jazz piano. But with five shows a day and apparently full for each show (5,000 people per day, 6 days a week!), it clearly seems to be popular! 

 

So ended the day that began with the ferocity of Temple Guardians, the gentle kindness of Guanyin and the serenity of Buddha.