Ever since I first taught at The Orff Institut in 1990, I always
thought that someday I might spend an entire year teaching here in Salzburg.
Live through the entire cycle of the seasons, finally learn German, teach one
group for so long that I ran out of material or things to say. (Unimaginable!)
Never happened (no invitation) and never will (past the Austrian required
retirement age). But still I could dream.
Walking some back streets of Salzburg the other day, I played
the little game that many of us do, searching for the dream house and imagining
myself living there until a blissful old age. This one with its perfect view of
the mountain Untersberg, that one with its cozy English cottage look, the other
with the enticing patio and garden. I imagined myself waking up each day and
greeting the distant fortress on the hill, enjoying my breakfast of hearty
whole wheat bread and cheese, walking through the wild-garlic smell forest path
along the flowing Salzsach river or biking down the bike path with no cars
through the open field to a day’s work at the Orff Institut serenaded by the
numerous morning birds. A two-hour lunch break in the nearby park, chatting
with the folks that come here from all over the world. Ride back to my
welcoming home with the sun setting over the mountains, a radler beer with my
dinner and an evening playing some Mozart on the piano. Why not?
And maybe the year would have grown to two or three until I
wholly forgot about rush-hour traffic, news of black youths shot by police, the
takeover of machines running our lives, the voices shouting from all angles to
shop and buy and get more stuff and talk about getting more stuff and the rise
of ignorance, greed and cruelty to the top of the power structure. I wonder
what that would have been like?
Instead I go to work at a school overlooking the freeway, spend
some meeting time talking about the improper use of the i-Pad each middle
school student is given, watch helplessly as the next ugly unneeded skyscraper
starts rising to blot the San Francisco skyline and bring in 40,000 more cars
to clog the freeways and sort through the 50 daily e-mails asking me to protest
against the next outrage by our Toddler-in-Chief.
But of course, I exaggerate. Always a joy to bike through Golden
Gate Park or hike in nearby Marin, go to the Garrison Keillor event or buy the
next book of poems by Mary Oliver or go to SF Jazz to hear Josh Redman or Sonny
Rollins. The work at school is stunning, both musically and otherwise and despite the traffic, litter and homelessness, San Francisco remains a vibrant place to be. It’s
not always pleasant to be an American living in the heart of the Beast, but it’s always
interesting and for better or worse, the life I was born to. And lately, hopeful as our slumbering compassionate selves are
awakening, rising to the call and gathering together to organize our visions
of life as it should be lived.
My time—and times again—in Salzburg were not meant for my chosen
life. Its role is to help me remember that “life as it should be lived” should
include two-hour lunches, numerous bike paths, a healthy distrust of high-rises
and too much money, attention to savoring the simple pleasures of good bread
and beer and keeping both natural and human-made beauty at the forefront of the
conversation. Salzburg, I will always remain your short-term guest, but always
happily so. And now, off to walk along the river on a Sunday morning where the stores still close and the city rests.
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