No, it wasn’t the water to wine big-spectacle kind of
miracle, complete with amplified soundtrack and big-screen enlargement. Just
one of life’s little serendipitous moments that tend to happen when you open
yourself to possibility, put messages out to the world and keep your antennae
up. After a great day biking the back roads of Bali, Talia and I had a little
recouping time at our hideaway and were just preparing for a twilight walk into
Ubud for dinner. Five minutes before going, I was lamenting that we would leave
Bali without Talia seeing a genuine temple festival. One minute before going,
Talia thought she should e-mail our Air B&B host to make sure about our
airport ride tomorrow. 30 seconds later, he appeared at our door and said, “There’s
a temple festival in my village tonight. Want to come?”
We arranged to meet him and his brother after eating at a
close-by restaurant and got out our newly-bought sarongs. Bali still generously
opens its life to tourists, but on its terms—ie, sarong and special head-piece.
At the appointed time, he and his brother arrived with motorcycle transport and
appropriate headgear and off we went into the night. And now my Bali re-visit
was complete. How often I headed off like this when word got out that something
special was happening here, there or anywhere.
We arrived at the temple with gamelan playing and women
emerging from the inner temple with the remarkable offerings of fruit
piled-high carried on their heads. The night market was across the street along
with a little mechanical merry-go-round whirling with the little ones, some
priests anointing the seated folks with holy water, another priest singing over
a loudspeaker in a different key and different tempo from the gamelan, Talia
and I the only outsiders, but everyone smiling at us and friendly.
Truth be told, it was low-keyed compared to others I’ve been to. No dancers at this one, no barong or Rangda masked dance, one gamelan instead of two or three, but still Talia got the flavor that she absorbed at 3-years old, but didn’t quite remember. It was over some 20 minutes after we arrived, but worth it to get a taste of this unbroken tradition on this most remarkable island. And I looked pretty cool in my headdress also.
On the way there and back, my host’s younger brother asked
me question after question with me behind him on the motorcycle. Not easy to
hear at my age with him up front and the wind and the sound of the motor and
with starter English at that, but some interesting questions like “What do
people like to do in America?” Well, that’s a challenging question! “Shop.
Watch TV. Let mean and greedy Republican senators vote to privatize National
Parks. Protest against the same. Watch cops get away with murder. Work to
educate a new generation toward compassion, empathy and connection with the ‘other.’
Save money so they can travel to Bali and eat, pray and love their way back to
harmonious balance.” Like I said, not an easy motorcycle conversation.
At any rate, a lovely end to a lovely day at the end of a
lovely week, ripe with serendipity and things aligning without Google polls or
advance reservations. Just some simple hopes and intentions voiced out loud and
set out the door and see what happens. And mostly, it happened.
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