Where can you see a book about Hitler next to another about
Scooby-Doo ? Eat an ice cream cone in shorts while listening to a Jewish
songwriter’s hit White Christmas sung in
Portuguese by Germans? See Santa Claus next to the Three Wise Men while eating
chocolate pizza? Why, in Nova Petropolis, of course!!
These were just some of my highlights in my post-course
night out in the south of Brazil. I had heard that Brazil was an inverted U.S.—
the hotter weather and black population in the Southern U.S. (well, at least
before the big migrations to Chicago and New York) while the Germans and
Norwegians settled up north in colder Minnesota and Wisconsin, is reversed in
Brazil— the big African influence in the tropical north and the German/ Italian
immigrants in the sub-tropical south. Whereas everyone typically expects samba
everywhere, not so in Southern Brazil. There are German choirs and Italian
choirs and gaucho-cowboy gatherings and very few folks with African ancestry.
Though the University students and young teachers I taught had
that northern Brazilian in-their-bodies rhythmic sense, the town I went to to
hear my host’s choir sing—Nova Petropolis—was indeed an old German town,
complete with food choices, blonde hair and architecture.
It’s fascinating what image of a country gets exported to
the world at large while the actual reality of local culture and demographics
is so much more diverse than we can ever imagine. Brazil has been Samba-land
for me since the movie Black Orpheus and bossa nova since Stan Getz
topped the charts with The Girl From Ipanema. But when I went to Recife
years back, I encountered new musical styles I never knew
existed—Maracatu, Ciranda, Frevo, for starters. Now I’ll have to include some
German-Brazilian, Italian-Brazilian and Gaucho culture in my expanded sense of
Brazil.
It was an interesting evening, to say the least. I hadn’t
seen many outward signs of Christmas in Caxias do Sul where I taught, but here
it was with a vengeance— a big Christmas tree in the town square, a little
Santa village close to the Nativity scene, multi-colored lights everywhere. I
browsed through the outdoor bookstores, curious about a series featuring Hitler, Stalin, Franco and others
shelved next to kids’ books— one could leaf through a book about Hitler and
then check out the next book on Scooby Doo. Then the first of four choirs came
to the stage and sang White Christmas
and Winter Wonderland in 80
degree heat. One of the stranger lead-ups to Christmas I’ve had.
It was certainly educational. Amongst many discoveries
(including chocolate pizza), I now know that there is another despot that ranks
up there with Hitler, Stalin, Franco and their ilk. Of course, I’m talking
about Scooby-Doo.
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