When I was 16 years old, already feeling exiled from the effortless joy and magic of childhood and seeking to recover it, only this time more consciously, I had just discovered the book Walden. Thoreau spoke to me of things that I could feel or hope to feel. I also now could drive to Watchung Reservation, my own little Waldenesque Park and roam through the woods.
I remember one occasion taking a walk to Surprise Lake and standing watching the water until observer (me) and observed (the waters of the lake) seemed to merge into one unified whole. Walking back through the woods to my car and passing people coming the other way on the path, I gave them a greeting and a smile, my meager attempt to communicate the little heart-opening experience I had just had.
For us human social creatures, the first impulse when we discover something worthy or beautiful is to communicate it and share it with others. I suppose that’s the whole point of these almost 5,000 blogposts. Also the musician’s need to perform what has been practiced, the artist’s need to display what has been painted, the author’s need to publish what has been written.
But at 5:30 in the morning after a most memorable and extraordinary day, I feel defeated by the challenge to share what happened yesterday. Of course, I can give some details. The first “Wake Up to Life” group Zumba class, Kofi-style, a session of games led by James, Sofia and myself, revealing our names, places we live, birthdays and days of the week we were born in the fun and musical way that we Orff teachers do. Then a lecture by Kofi about the continent of Africa, revealing the deep ignorance and shameful images most of us were fed by media, books, teachers who failed to show us the extraordinary breadth and depth of this continent—geographically, anthropologically, historically, biologically, culturally and more. The morning was enough to mark the day as important, connective, revelatory and special.
But we were just warming up. After lunch, we boarded the bus to go to a formal welcoming ceremony and as we stepped down the dirt path into the heart of a town’s neighborhood, the distant drums sounding closer greeted us as they always do on this opening day of the Orff Afrique course.
And here is where words begin to fail. The powerful and complex drumming and singing, which I’m still trying to figure out after all these years, drew us in to the world where words leave off into the direct bodily experience of the power of human community wholly connected to the seen and unseen worlds, the ancestors and descendants, the multiple faculties of soul within us all that mostly lie dormant during our business-as-usual days. In music as healing circles, it is well known that rattles serve to awaken and electrically charge us with their vibrations while the drums balance the energy with deeper vibrations that unify body and soul.
With some 30 women playing rattles and 20 men playing drums, we were lifted into a larger consciousness made yet more powerful by the invitations to come into the circle and dance, not to passively listen, but to wholly participate in the feast of healing vibration. Someone invites you into the circle to do a simple (but still room to do better with consummate style) dance move with a little ritual ending that you can quickly learn, little movement punctuation marks that signal the end of your time together. If you want a break from dancing, you can also join in picking up a rattle and joining in with a simple, playable pattern.
For an outsider and rank beginner to get into the center of this complex music with a doable dance move and playable rattle part is something apart from any musical experience I’ve had in this world. I’ve admired and been uplifted by the community gamelans in Bali, that have their own spiritual power and musical complexity. But no casual observer can just get up and dance or sing along or sit in with the band. Likewise difficult to jump in on a complex Bulgarian folk dance without considerable practice nor join in with the music. You can sing along in a neighborhood hootenanny, but minus the integration of playing, singing and dancing and the thunderous power of exquisite music crafted over centuries Dancing on the street to a brass band in New Orleans comes closer to the Ghanaian invitation, but as fun as it is to shake your booty, it still doesn’t approach the multiple layers of this experience.
There’s so much we don’t know about the way the rhythms work together and how they speak musically some deeply meaningful proverbs, how the singing works and what they’re singing about, how the ancestors are invited into the dancing ring to participate in community life. How the whole experience, which happens often in different contexts, creates and sustains a meaningful community of shared wisdom and values. One can dance (as I did) with Kofi’s 98-year-old mother and then a 4-year-old child, dance with women or men, observe the baby on the back of the dancing mother, without thinking about what a different world it creates when all ages gather together and mutually celebrate.
Again, words fail. These gatherings express everything I think the world could and should be. When I compare the depth of this kind of community with the way typical Americans relate to each other in offices, workplaces, schools, churches, sporting events, family gatherings, I can’t help but feel that we are in kindergarten in the school of communal engagement. Not to shame or blame us — any sincere attempt to come together with a sense of welcome and celebration is worthy of praise. But given how we have been fed the lies of Africa as a backward and undeveloped continent, it is maddening to think how our arrogance and ignorance keep us from realizing how extraordinary this Ewe (and some 2,000 other ethnic group cultures) are in this regard and how very much we have to learn from them. As I said, words fail to express this clearly.
But there’s more.
Now it was time for the formal ceremony where the chief, the elders, the priests (of the traditional religions) welcome us. First with a libation to the ancestors—water, whisky and watery corn flour poured on the ground to make sure we come with pure intentions and don’t have any hidden agendas to harm. Given the history of colonialism here— still afoot with missionaries and capitalists— that feels like an important test to pass. And we did.
We then stood up one by one and shared our name and place and then came forward one by one to receive a bracelet from the chief and shake hands with the entire welcoming committee.
But the most moving moment is when any people with African-American blood in our group—and we had three—come forward again to receive a beaded necklace and a “Welcome home” from the chief. Kofi prefaced by acknowledging the role of ancestral chiefs in gathering people to be sold in the slave trade and apologized for their part in the horror. While also acknowledging the European’s role in decimating their land, depriving them of human resources and shredding the fabric of traditional culture. Here was truth and reconciliation at its finest— a blend of sincere apology, remorse, grief mixed with joy of homecoming. Not a dry eye in the house.
More festive dancing, off to Kofi’s childhood home where his mother played a bell and sang a song to us (again, 98-years-old and so sharp and present) and then to Nunya Academy, the school Kofi dreamed of and completed for a delicious dinner prepared by his extended family. (The story of Nunya School is an entry in itself for those who don’t know about it. If you’re impatient to know more, check them out on the Website). Finally, back to the hotel and a de-brief with Kofi as he revealed so much of what’s happening behind the scenes of everything we just experienced.
Words keep failing, so I’ll save for another time the role of collective meaning and wisdom present in every corner of this extraordinary culture. Suffice it to say that is more highly evolved, sophisticated, intricate, spiritually potent than what most of us have ever had an inkling of a dream about, never mind experienced.
Meanwhile, there was a moment wholly immersed through the senses, heart, body and mind in a dance with purple scarves, when I felt so clearly, “This. This is the only antidote I can imagine to the ongoing horror back hom and worldwide." I began to dream of a global “We Are the World” mass event where for one day (or week or month or year!), people in every corner of the planet at the same time in their own way with their own music filled the planet with music’s healing vibration. But not the big glitzy show with corporate sponsorship, ads, TV coverage—that’s part of the problem not the solution. But this model of one afternoon in the town of Dzodze, Ghana.
A new day dawns. Let us awaken with it.