The date palm tastes so sweet, but at some point, you have to stop eating it.
- Ewe Proverb (approximately)
And so we come to the end. Almost 100% participation in one final “Wake Up to Life” morning exercise with Kofi. He chose a beautiful Ghanaian song for guitar and voice as we stretched this way and that and wasn’t it fine to not only awaken the body and integrate the two halves of brain and limbs, but to do it in unison like birds flocking in the vast sky. To release ourselves into the movement of the day, participate in the wonder of creation as the world is made new each morning.
One last breakfast with my daily porridge, irresistible Ghanaian donut wreaking havoc on my belly fat, the always sunny greeting from Paul. Back to the room to pack, bring my suitcase on the bus, grab a guitar and improvise the Leaving Dzodze Blues with my xylophone colleague Aaron on flute:
We came to Dzodze (guitar riff) and it’s been fun (riff)
We came to dance and play (riff) and now we’re done. (riff)
We’re feeling so happy (riff) and feeling so sad (riff)
To end the best dang time that we’ve ever had, we got
The leaving Dzodze blues, from our head down to our shoes,
Got the leavin’, leavin’ Dzodze blues.
Etc.
By 10 am, one bus was packed going to Accra and the other going to Ho and another 5 days of touring. Hugs and goodbyes and off we went, imagining the faces of the Nunya kids who had been lined up to greet us a mere two weeks (a couple of lifetimes?) ago. Goodbye, White Dove Hotel! Goodbye, High School! Goodbye, fish in marketplace! Goodbye, Traveler’s Inn! Goodbye, turn-off road to Nunya Academy!
And down the road we went, one person singing Spanish songs, another later medley of Sound of Music songs, the chatter of 21 forever-bonded people, some quiet descending as people napped. Then a stop for some “free-range peeing” out in the fields, another stop at the place we bought snacks when we were entirely different people on our way to the White Dove. Cross the Volta River, shout-outs of “Anthills!” (including the biggest I’ve seen here), slowing down at the police barricades (no, we were not smuggling anything). Finally the signs of the approaching urban Accra and back to the MJ Grand Hotel, again a marker of the very different group of people we were at the same place exactly 14 days ago. Most here to leave their luggage until we grab taxis to the airports for our 10:30 flights.
Some went off to the Arts Market, one to a Mall, some just walking around the neighborhood. I sat with 5 people in front of the big-screen TV with soccer games playing, sharing beers, a little food, and more stories from our lives. 5:00 pm now and I moved to the pool (but with bathing suit packed away) to get a break from the distraction of the screen, seated at a table under a thatched roof, watching the lovely couple playing a game of flipping plastic water bottles while the pool water shimmers and a light breeze brings its blessing of cool air. Life is grand.

As for the big dramatic wrap-up, what more can I say that I haven’t already? Just my customary immense gratitude for the extraordinary hospitality and generosity of the Ghanaian people, the immersion in complex, dynamic, energetic, joyous and life-affirming music and dance, the company of such stellar human beings sharing the craft of music teaching. Thanks for it all! Including the gift of health, just one short moment of “funny tummy” and my little motorcycle burn. No dizziness this whole time (though this is precisely where that little syndrome started two years ago).
My big takeaway from the entire eight weeks of remarkable travels, from the first night in Paris, to the Dordognes bike ride, to more Paris and London and Oxford and hiking in the Cotswolds to London again, workshop and lovely days with a new friend, to workshops in Vienna, Salzburg and Linz and more reunions with people I care deeply for and of course, Ghana, is perhaps best stated by this passage from W.B. Yeats:
When such as I cast out remorse
So great a sweetness flows into the breast
We must laugh and we must sing,
We are blest by everything,
Everything we look upon is blest.
What lies ahead? No need to anticipate the challenge of returning into the belly of the beast. Just allow myself to look forward to the reunion with my wife and daughter, some friends I have walk dates with, two sessions at The Jewish Home, salads, hazy IPA beer and dark chocolate, my piano and Bach and Jazz. Nine bows to it all and on we go.