Wednesday, June 25, 2014

Romance and Reality: Orff-Afrique in Ghana


Hello again to all my dear readers. I’ve been ten days now in Ghana, precisely the kind of experience that this blog was made for. Been swept up in a non-stop schedule of classes, performances, field trips, with barely a moment to write and no Internet to post. But now at Ho and back onto the grid— for better or worse— and so will start to post some of which I’ve written.

A word of warning: I’m pre-disposed to love Ghana. Not only because it’s the root of so much that I admire— jazz and the spiritual triumph of African-Americans, for starters—but also because it represents what I call a primary culture, folks who live close to the earth with minimum clutter of technology and maximum culture and community. (Some people call them “the third world” but I call them “primary cultures,” free from all the excessive layers of civilization, screens and science running the show).

Every culture and every person has a unique mix of admirable qualities and shadow sides that need attention.  We seek that which we lack and in so doing, are prone to erring on the side of admiration. There are certainly shadow sides to Ghanaian culture worthy of the same kind of critique I make of my American upbringing and if I lived here for a while, I’m sure I would start naming them. But for now, I’m just head-over-heels in love with certain qualities of human community that I’ve been seeking to develop in my own way and in my own place my whole life. So I ask your patience here to forgive my over-enthusiasm and accept this rosy portrait of just about everything I encounter.

PS Rather than one long piece, I’m posting them one at a time from Day 1 to Day 9. Enjoy your armchair travel!

Blessings from Above: Day 1


And so we began this grand adventure on Sunday night, 35 lovely music teachers from eleven countries, five continents, nine U.S. states gathered together from a love of music, children and cultural exchange. Began with a typical Orff workshop beginning, jumping straight into the refreshing waters with immediate music, dance and song with a “getting to know you theme.” Kofi gave us some overview of local and beyond Ghanaian culture and made the curious remark that here when you meet someone, they say “You’re welcome” and you say “thank you.” Just one of many reversals that are charming, fascinating and offer the expanded point of views that crossing borders allows. And indeed, I believe everyone felt welcome and ready to partake of the feast ahead.

The next day began with more songs and dances and games and then lunch at Kofi’s family home. Such a pleasure to meet his mother and brothers and aunts and cousins and share a meal in a home. From there, to the ceremony where women were singing, dancing and playing rattles, men playing the drums (still a division of sexes here) and inviting us to dance with them. Then to a special area where the chief and his consorts sat prepared for a ceremony of greeting that involved more drumming and gunshots to show the importance of the occasion.

And important it was. Kofi had arranged to crown Sofia as the Queen of Cultural Development of Dzodze with the blessings of the Chief. Why? Because by meeting her, he set off on his path of combining Orff Schulwerk with African music, made the connection with The San Francisco School and James and I and various Orff associations, was inspired to start a music school for children in his home town and being who he is, wanted to formally express his gratitude. Then he was surprised to discover that he was also being crowned as the King of Cultural Development for the stellar work and dedication to serving the children. And so libations were poured, special words spoken and other ritual activities. The atmosphere was serious, but also light and I couldn’t help but smile inwardly as the Chief answered his cell phone in the midst of the ceremony. What an extraordinary welcome for us all! The blessing of the Chief is a significant moment in the life of an individual and a community and is essential to the health of both.

What would it mean to me if in my own community I was named as the King of Cultural Development and blessed from above? Given the work I’ve done over four decades in helping create and sustain the unique culture of the school, it might be worthy of a title and a ceremony. But the virus of our flatland culture is growing, the disrespect for elders and over-fascination with young folks who can navigate machines better. Despite all my talks with myself that my work is its own reward and the appreciation from my students of all ages is enough, the fact is that it’s not. Not because my ego needs more stroking, but the opposite. The lack of such blessing, be it for me or anyone who has done the work, is a symptom of a culture’s sickness and everyone suffers. They may not know what feels off and put words to it, but I believe they feel its absence.

Administrators, take note. Are there workshops in your conferences titled Conferring Blessings? Valuing Your Staff and Letting Them Know It?

Okay, it’s summer and time to leave that aside and be wholly here in this marvelous place that still understands the vertical dimension of human culture, the energy of the sun coming into the chief’s golden rings and crowns which he accepts on behalf of the community and in service of the community. And now I get to put on my resume, “colleague of the Queen of Cultural Development.”

God Is in the House: Day 2


One of my favorite jazz stories goes something like this: Fats Waller, a highly accomplished piano player, was playing at a club when he spotted Art Tatum. He stopped played and announced to the crowd:

 “Ladies and gentlemen, I play piano. But tonight God is in the house.”

Art Tatum had that effect on people. Aspiring pianists would go to hear this virtuoso jazz pianist who could play more ideas (and at lightning speed) in 4 measures than most can do in 32. They’d leave throwing up their hands, saying, “Why bother? What’s the use?” and take up French horn or accounting.

And that’s how I felt tonight, watching my second evening in a row of performances in the Ghanaian village of Ghana. The virtuosity of these local musicians and dancers brought me to the brink of human belief and made me wonder, “What’s the point of learning a few supporting drum patterns and shaking my bootie a bit?” The energy, stamina, elasticity and just pure joy of this group was 8.5 on the Richter scale. Made me feel that it’s weird that I get to travel around the world as a music teacher with my 1.5 capability. Something is off here.

How narrow our exposure is to genuine artistry, talent or genius. Few know more beyond pop radio, American Idol and So You Think You Can Dance and can’t even conceive of the idea of folks in a relatively remote village achieving such a high level without a single second of fame or name recognition or even aspiration to be a star. Trust me— if Michael Jackson jumped into the dancing ring tonight, I believe the folks would smile and think, “Not bad” and go on to stretch his talent a bit further.

This isn’t the first time I’ve thought about this. From astounding gamelan ensembles in Bali to mind-boggling Wagogo singers and dancers from Tanzania to extraordinary South and North Indian drummers, the world is bursting with astonishing music that most people will never get to hear and amazing dance that they will never get to see—and I’ve been privileged to see and hear them. It’s true that some of the astonishment is my own unfamiliarity with the musical style and language and technique. I know enough to know that something extremely difficult and complex is going on and because I don’t understand it fully and am not practiced in the musical techniques, the performers are elevated to a high level in my mind. But perhaps at the end of the day, I’ve worked just as hard to craft a passable piano solo on a jazz standard and they might (or might not!) feel the same if they heard me play or tried to do it themselves.

But there is another level working here. Some of the groups I’ve named above— and I could have gone on with Bulgarian bagpipe players or Irish fiddlers or Venezuelan cuatro players and beyond—represent cultures where music is so deeply embedded in daily life that from baby to toddler to child to teenager and beyond, people absorb it with the ease of a home language. I’ve long known that my field of music education is just plain weird to folks in these cultures who live and breath and speak and sing and dance music just about every day of their life— and so never have to go to a formal music class or spend time locked in a practice room. Within their culture’s styles, they achieve high levels almost effortlessly. “Practice” is simply playing in community and though groups may rehearse pieces and create choreographies, it’s a whole different animal than the middle school band practice.

I’ve know this for a long time and my ideal in pursing the Orff approach has been to attempt to build a musical community with some of those qualities of simply being immersed in music. To some extent, I and my colleagues have succeeded. But to reach higher levels, the kids would need to be around adults who are all playing, singing and dancing at basic to high levels of competence, not just specially selected music teachers. And do it every day. Not just in school, but at home. But because we can’t control that, we just do what we can.

So tonight God was in the house and in more ways than one. One of the dances was specifically a traditional religious dance involving trance— this is one of the way that the Spirits are called into the Community and tonight one came. And the dances that were not labeled as religious were profound in their role of passing on the lore and lessons and wisdom of the culture through dance steps, song lyrics and drum patterns.

Music and dance are not candy in these cultures—they’re the main course. They feed the body, the mind, the heart, the Soul and the Spirit and unite communities in ways that cultures without it can’t even imagine. And everyone participates. From babies bouncing on the back to grandmothers, from teenagers to music teacher tourists. The profound integration in these cultures achieved in no small part through millennium of unbroken music and dance is something National Geographic magazine never quite captured. We ignorant children growing up in 1950’s New Jersey used to laugh at the pictures of shirtless Africans. My apologies! How could we have known what heights of human culture exist here!

So much of chauvinism or racism/ sexismt/ etc.ism is simply ignorance. And so I once again elevate teachers to their proper status— as the people with the opportunity to bring light into darkness, tell the stories that need to be told and invite the children into the dancing ring of belonging, respect, understanding and compassion. Africa is not “the dark continent” because of skin color, but because of the Western world’s deep ignorance of its complexity, wisdom and beauty. Once we shift the standard of achievement from enduring monuments, tall buildings and big money to human community backed by a profound spirituality, a rich world awaits us that has much to teach.

Off to my next lesson.

Invitation to the Dance: Day 3

Our third day of life lived and witnessed at a level far beyond the daily round. A morning of drumming and xylophone classes, an afternoon of reviewing all drum, bell and rattle parts, all six dance moves, for the Bobobo music and dance. Someone stumbling into my book about Orff Schulwerk titled Play, Sing & Dance would most likely say, “Well, duh!!!” The African way of learning all the parts and being able to switch between them is now also “the Orff way” and it’s a whole different paradigm of music education than the specialist approach. So at the end of the class, half the class played the instruments and the other half danced. And then what? Switch!

And in another brilliant idea practiced in good Orff —or any kind of— classes was to have the dance teachers drop out and one of the students step forward. When it was my group’s turn to dance and no one stepped forward, I took the lead. I’m certainly not known for being shy in group settings like these, but I had two reasons to be so. First, I was still nursing my pulled calf muscle and was worried about re-injury. Secondly, the most ubiquitous dance move in this area, the one we’re always asked to try when the performing dancers pull us up out of our seats, is completely foreign to my body’s nerve pathways. The eye sees it and sends signals down to the muscles, who respond, “Huh???”

But with the energy of drums in my feet and a mysterious lightness and looseness, I stepped up to the role, invoked James Brown and had a rollicking good time. Afterwards, when both Kofi and his oldest daughter (one of the dance instructors) complemented me on my dancing, I was beaming with pride. Now those were not complements to take lightly. And speaking of lightly, I felt lighter in my body having gotten out of my head (spending a lot of time there lately!) and the world was renewed.

I once read a story about someone who asked a villager what he thought of the new chief. He replied, “I don’t know. I haven’t seen him dance yet.” It’s hard to hide your character out on the dance floor.

Near the end of another three-hour performance, when the class got up to dance and approached the 50 plus musicians, the chills up my spine were electric and the tears starting to flow. As we approached the music, the vibrations entered every cell in my body and I was lifted up into the pure world of Spirit. There’s no earthly reason why these groups we’ve seen can play and dance and sing as long and hard as they do without getting exhausted. But they do. And I believe that this music, crafted over centuries, continually developing and responding what’s going on in the community, played on drums made through ritual offerings to trees and animals so that their voices will join the conversation, is a prayer 10,000 times more powerful than mouthed words asking for a sled for Christmas, a prayer answered in each beat of the drum and step of the foot, lifting the players up in a habitual visit from Spirit. We read scientific studies about the power of music for Alzheimer’s patients and such and think we’ve discovered some late-breaking news, while these extraordinary communities are maintaining an unbroken life where music is at the center of the whole deal. I’m impressed.

The Ghana Insurance Company: Day 4


The Festival of Delight continues without pause. Though we did treat ourselves and the students to a well-timed pause by leaving the hotel compound and going into town on Market Day. Though I’ve loved the special opportunities being here with Kofi organizing things the average tourist wouldn’t ever experienced, still it was sweet to just hit the streets and wander through the market and be that anonymous traveler I know and love so well. How many markets have I browsed through in this world! From Guatemala to Ghana to Fiji, from Barcelona to Istanbul to Cape Town, from India to Taiwan to Thailand and beyond—the details change but the buzz of humanity exchanging goods, the pleasure of bargaining, the artfully arranged fruits and vegetables, are a universal pleasure.

We walked into town with various school girls who immediately struck up conversation and ended up giving us a little Ewe language lessons. Then on to the Internet café. It had been four full days now offline and truth be told, I liked it. Opened my mail to 156 messages, only 10 or so which held any interest or importance. But nice to connect with the family, note that I had one more sign-up for my jazz course and see on Facebook that both my daughters had honored me for Father’s Day and great photos and publicly shared their appreciation for a childhood filled with Zen chanting, Bulgarian bagpipes, body slapping internet and traveling around the world in search of the miraculous. They moved me to tears knowing that they saw and valued the weirdness and wackiness of their Dad.

From there into the marketplace, always fun to browse and feel the hustle and bustle and invitation to participate in bargaining. But I already had a seamstress working on the one gift that interested me— a dress for granddaughter Zadie— so didn’t end up buying anything.

Hitched a ride on a motorcycle back to the hotel. That was fun! The breeze blowing where I used to have hair and that sense of being carefree. Then a lecture from Kofi about the structure and role of the Ghana music clubs. Similar to the groups that form in Brazil or New Orleans to prepare for Carnaval or Mardi Gras, but instead of a one-point focus, just a general sense of being prepared for weddings, funerals and special occasions. Each member pays some dues and the dues create a kind of community insurance, a fund that’s available to help any member in need. I love it!!! Put those racketeer insurance companies out of business and put it back in the hands of friends and neighbors prepared to help out. Both simple and breathtaking at once, a welcome contrast to my culture where institutions make profit off of other people’s suffering. Maybe I’ll start the Friends and Neighbors Music Insurance Company when I return. You get to belong to a group that shares the pleasure of collective music-making and create a safety net for life’s calamities as well. Of course, that would only work if hospitals didn’t charge $500 for three-block ambulance rides, thousands of dollars for an overnight stay in the hospital.

After dinner, the Nunya kids returned to show us a collection of children’s games.
Again impressed not only that they knew so many, but by the spirit in which they played— loose, fun, relaxed. I remember many years back an Orff colleague came to Ghana and brought back some delightful games to her classroom. But whereas the Ghanaian children would get out with a laugh and a smile, the American children starting yelling, “You cheated!” “Yeah! I won!!!” “I always lose this stupid game!” The teacher quickly realized that the game is incidental to the spirit. How to bring that back to our kids? Ah, there’s a question.

At the end of the evening, Kofi asked the 40 kids who had watched TV that day and not a single hand went up. That was striking. The 4 to 6 hours a day our American children spend watching TV or playing on screens is robbing them from the lessons of real-time play with their whole bodies, minds and spirits with friends. How to work that into our lesson plans?

No new questions for me, just the same ones I’ve been asking for 40 years with renewed conviction in the importance of everything I’m witnessing.