The Architecture of Survival

The first of the tourist attractions near the town of Postojna was the Predjama Castle, named for the legendary figure Erasmus van Predjama, the Slovenian Robin Hood. The story is that the Austrian Emperor was at war with the Hungarian King and Erasmus’ best friend fought for the king. The Emperor sought him out and had him murdered and at an imperial reception, an officer in the Austrian army insulted Erasmus’ friend. Erasmus challenged him to a duel, killed him and then fled to a castle where he went into hiding. The castle was virtually impregnable and from that base, Erasmus went on various raids and gave any spoils from the rich to the poor. 

The “virtually” part of “virtually impregnable” was one small section where the walls were thin enough for a cannonball to blast through. Where? Where the toilet was! A servant betrayed Erasmus and gave a signal to the enemy when Erasmus was sitting on the john and it was there that he met his death. 

That’s the brief backstory. The tour of the castle was done with a friendly small phone audio guide and emphasized all the features of this remarkable structure. It was built out of and into the rock of an overhanging cave and in some places, it was hard to distinguish between the human-build roof and the natural rock overhang. Water dripped everywhere and was ingeniously funneled into collecting barrels. There were secret tunnels that allowed Erasmus to go out and pick cherries and return. I don’t think it’s on any list of the top 20 human-made wonders of the world, but I think it could qualify. 

Castles abound in Slovenia (and throughout Europe) and their main focus seems to be survival, creating a fortress where the enemy can’t enter. Situated on the highest hills with thick walls and windows designed to shoot arrows or cannons or pour boiling water. Inside Predjama Castle, there was a display of all the weapons and knights armor, all the strategies to enclose the free dancing body of a human being inside weapon-proof thick, heavy and clumsy armor or buildings. And why? Because our flawed species has always insisted and continues to insist that it’s perfectly normal to kill each other off for nothing more than a religious idea, political power and just plain stupidity. So while architecturally astounding, the entire reason for its being is far from the best we have to offer. 

Still, I’d put it on your bucket list! 

PS Damn Blogspot still won't let me upload photos! Sorry!