We stepped out of our little Tokyo apartment around 10:30 in the morning and when we returned at 7:30 pm, granddaughter Zadie and I had walked over 8 miles through four different neighborhoods. Got off the Ginza line at Shibuya and wandered our way to Harajuku, with its crowded narrow street of pedestrians- only with trendy stores and a host of animal cafes. We went to the Cat CafĂ©, which truth be told, was a little underwhelming— mostly sitting amidst many cats, petting one or two, feeding another and drinking one free drink. Nearby were others featured Samoyed dogs, capybaras (the world’s largest rodent, whom I had seen in Brasilia), piglets and a host of other four-legged creatures. We stopped to sample Marion’s crepes, a cheese corn dog and potatoes on a stick (see photo) and just generally be part of the youthful scene.
After all that urban intensity, we made our way to the welcome spaciousness of Meiji Jingu Shrine, a Shinto shrine particularly honoring the Emperor Meiji who first opened up communications between Japan and the West. While strolling, I reviewed the 5 major religions of the world with Zadie and told her the story of Buddha and how Buddhism is unique in that Buddha never intended to be revered as a god. She indulged me by listening politely and then asked where we were going next.
So from the tranquility of the park, back to the hustle and bustle of Shinjuku, with its giant screen with videos of a cat and an enormous Godzilla sculpture peeking over a building. More wall-to-wall people and now night, so the lights were on, evoking a combination of Las Vegas and Times Square. Zadie had been fairly introspective all day, a combination of personality, jet lag and being 14, but as we stood at a light waiting to cross, she looked around at all the glitter and exclaimed, “It’s beautiful!”
We stumbled into the perfect restaurant, a small Japanese place serving dumplings and gyoza, two of her favorites. And they indeed were delicious. Whenever a customer entered through the door, the chef called out “Irasshaimase!” (“Welcome!”), a ritual I remember from previous visits and had forgotten. Just the kind of little cultural gesture that we all might consider. (Picture that at your local Macdonald’s/ TGIF’s/ Starbucks).
I remember another small gesture of being aware of others, an etiquette that when sitting at a table drinking beer or wine or sake with a group, that you yourself should not refill your glass when you need more, but that one of the others should notice and pour it for you. It is the understatement of the year that we need to cultivate small acts of kindness and welcome and such gestures can add up to an increased awareness of each other. Thank you, Japan!
On to Day 2.


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