Tuesday, October 27, 2026

The Black Sea

 

I’m now in Koaceli, Turkey, enjoying the grand pleasure of reuniting with my friend Sencer, a fellow Orff teacher I taught in the Special Course in Salzburg. Always a pleasure to re-connect, be it in Salzburg, the Body Music Festival in Ghana or the various trips I’ve taken to Turkey. A fine teacher, an excellent musician and all-around great guy!

 

So with a morning off, he drove me to the Black Sea. Quite an iconic place, connecting Turkey with Bulgaria, Romania, Moldavia, Ukraine, Russia, Georgia. A lot of history there, past and present. Unlike the drive from Istanbul to Koaceli, on highways through industrial areas, this road passed through the countryside.  We passed a gypsy encampment, with a disturbing amount of garbage strewn about, past a maximum-security prison with high wall and barbed wire a’plenty and then came to a charming little town, Karpe, with a restaurant called Karpe Diem.  And there it was—the Black Sea.

 

We parked the car and walked along the edge, feeling the power of its churning and crashing waves. The sky was overcast, the wind blustery, the air with a pleasant Fall chill. A short invigorating walk by the Fall-empty (but Summer-full) beach and then sit down for my first cup (this trip) of Turkish coffee. Sencer re-told the story of how it is made and reminded me of the tradition of leaving some at the bottom to be used for fortune-telling. You put the saucer on top, swirl it around a bit and then turn upside down, putting your wedding ring (optional) on top of the overturned cup. Let it sit five minutes, turn over again and see what the coffee grounds have to say. You interpret your friend’s and they interpret yours. Mine had to do with—no surprise— travel and an ocean and a bridge, so it seemed pretty realistic. 

 

Before that excursion, I had checked in on the Valkries game and —again no surprise—was thrilled that they won! Also peeked in on the Brazilian election and not sure I got it all right, but it seems like the good guy won. For this semi-superstitious guy, these were good omens. Liberal California team beating conservative Georgia team, the Brazilian’s voting for justice over fascism. Cautious optimism reported in the American news as we near mid-terms. It is well past time for the tide to turn. Here and everywhere. 

 

Including the countries surrounding the Black Sea. May it be so! 

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