One of the great pleasures of traveling is stumbling upon surprising places. On the bike trip a few years back, I was astounded by the city of Matera in Puglia, Italy. How did I never hear of this remarkable place? Last year in Slovenia I remember that most people know of the beauty of Prague and Venice and Salzburg, but for my money, Ljubljana was every bit as enchanting.
Then this morning, walking through the town of Les Eyzies (yes, I had never heard of it either), I had the same feeling of discovering a hidden treasure. No, not as dramatic as the boys finding the Lascaux Caves, but actually the short trip to those caves is one of the town’s many attractions. But it also has a lovely riverside walk and then turning up towards the cliffs, an eye-catching blend of human architecture joining nature’s handiwork (a few photos below). We came across a charming flea market, so alongside the marvels of antiquity, there was the buzz of the folks today exchanging both pleasantries and goods.
The town also hosts two museums featuring pre-historical artifacts and well-presented information. And inviting small streets and alleys with unique stone houses and red slanted roofs. It’s fortunate that this Blog readership is small— I wouldn’t want to be responsible for a tourist deluge magnified far beyond what the place already invites. But I’d strongly suggest you put it on your list if you’re so inclined.
After our morning walk, we biked to another town through the usual tunnels of lush greenery and yet more astounding cliffs. A picnic lunch alongside the river in company with locals (but minus their tablecloths). Then we met a pre-arranged company putting us in canoes to paddle downriver while they drove our bikes back to our hotel. It started as a bit of a challenge as two of our group set a blistering pace which my wife and I had to struggle to keep up with. In hot, hot sun. But once we found more shady patches and realized we could paddle more leisurely, it was a nice contrast to the biking. Truth be told, I could have done with 5 less miles of the 11 we traveled, but were happy to have done it and we all rewarded ourselves with a swim at our hotel pool.
And so our triathlon plus 1 day (quadrathon?)— walking, biking, canoeing, swimming—ended with a lovely meal at a pizza restaurant with unique salads served inside of a pizza crust bowl. Alongside a well-earned refreshing beer and memorable scoop of chocolate ice cream.
After three days in one place, we move hotels today. We have had simply perfect weather, no rain and early 70’s, but today is the first threat of precipitation. Not my favorite way to bike. We’ll see if we can beat the odds.
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